Saturday, March 29, 2008
You get a site! You get a site! You’re all getting sites in Bolivia!
Okay actually, we had to play a game where you blow a plastic cup along a string and when you reached the end you run over to a basket of chocolate eggs, unwrap it and inside is a little slip of paper with a person’s name and their site, whoever’s site is announced then has to blow the plastic cup and announce someone else’s site. Yeah, I think the Oprah thing sounds cooler too, let’s go with that.
Site announcements: There was so much speculation and discussion in the 4 days between our interviews during tech week and the actual site announcements that everyone thought they had an idea of where people were going. But when it came time for the announcements they definitely shook things up and we had quite a few surprises. I think most people were happy with their sites although a few definitely weren’t. Some got their first choice, while others were sent to a site that for them was a “if you send me there I will go home” site. As for me, I can’t complain because I got my first choice! I was so sure that another volunteer was getting that site (mainly because our program director had told her she was getting it) and I had pretty much come to terms with going to my second or even third choice. I was so excited that I could barely blow the cup!
So about my site, all I know right now was written on a piece of paper and I’ll know a whole lot more after I return from the site visit we have next week. I’m not sure if I’m allowed to disclose the actual name of the pueblo itself for security reasons, so for now I will refer to it as Papaya Land. Why did I want this site? Well mainly because it is a region that produces so many papayas that they don’t know what to do with them! Besides that, I’ll be working with a women’s group, the school, a group of beekeepers and the community in general. It is a very small town, like 500 people small and very campo, so I feel like I’m getting the real deal Bolivia. It is in the region of Tarija (consult your map of Bolivia to see how close I am to Argentina and keep that in mind when you come to visit me!) It is subtropical which means hot, humid and full of bugs, but it was my region of preference so I’m obviously okay with that. Hooray, I get to take anti-malaria medication for the next 2 years! Aside from that this site is going to be awesome, they have never had a volunteer before, which means it’s going to be an even bigger challenge but there are an infinite number of possibilities. I get to lay the foundation and start projects that will hopefully be sustained by the community. I will have primary projects including product transformation (imagine all the things you can do with papaya!), starting a school garden and expanding the technical training of the beekeepers. There are secondary projects that are possible, such as teaching nutrition, English and computer classes at the school.
There are 7 volunteers form my group, B-47, in the region and a few others for previous groups who are nearby. Tarija is 24 hours by bus from Cochabamba so we get to fly for our site visit. One of the volunteers who got a neighboring site in Tarija really didn’t want this region but I’m hoping that after the site visit he will change his mind. We haven’t had anyone ET (early termination) yet and that’s saying a lot for a group of 31 volunteers, but when ET’s do happen it’s usually after site announcement/visit. Our group is really tight and everyone has been working so hard that to see someone go now would be really tough. Plus, since the Tarija volunteers are so far away from other regions they tend to form a support group among themselves so we would really feel the loss of that volunteer. In other semi-sad news my hyper twin, my media naranja, my partner in dance parties and mayhem, Lebo also got her first choice, which is awesome except for the fact that it’s in Sucre and we are really far away from each other. It’s okay though we are going to have tech exchanges and simultaneous dance parties across regions. Plus, her site is comprised of all male Swiss NGO workers, one of whom she will fall in love with and marry. There are also a bunch of Canadian oregano farmers. But don’t cry for me Argentina, because I’m your neighbor and I’m sure to encounter my half-Bolivian, half-Argentinean soul mate as we shop for jeans in Bermejo. If none of that last part made any sense don’t worry about it, I’ve had a lot of sugar today and I’m giddy because I get to visit my site!
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Best Tech Week Ever
The AG volunteers had a whirlwind tour of the Santa Cruz department visiting several of our potential sites and sites of current volunteers. The road was bumpy, the road was long; many hours were spent in the bus with the master Don Roque behind the wheel navigating the twists, turns, dips, bumps, debris and the occasional fording of rivers. Over the nine days of travel our group of 15 trainees, 1 current volunteer, 2 trainers and Don Roque (el jefe) expanded as we picked up other volunteers in each of the 4 cities we visited. Bus time was fun but intense. We were loud, messy, tired, antsy, dance-y. Many bathroom breaks were taken on the side of the road and it’s not very often that you get to pee in a ditch in the dark with your teacher as your look out, but in PC it’s just another bonding experience. The views along the way were amazing, traveling through the valleys you are naturally surrounded by mountains and gorgeous views. Everyone was constantly snapping pictures trying to capture the scenery but it just doesn’t do it any justice, but as my friend Pat said, “A picture’s worth a thousand words right, so a thousand pictures, that’s like a billion words.”
We worked with bees…a lot. Hives were inspected, Queen cells and nucleos were made and transplanted, people were stung, honey was harvested and just about every beehive product you can imagine was consumed: honey, nectar, pollen, wax, propolis, royal jelly and bee larva (full of protein but the texture is awful!) We learned some more about product transformation, we made lip balm, wax for candles and beehive panels, a miracle mix of honey, pollen and royal jelly, which is actually really tasty and of course straight up honey. Bee keeping can actually be a profitable venture and it has been one of the most successful projects of Bolivia’s AG program so that’s why we do so much of it. Besides bees we also worked with a women’s group making peach marmalade and I was in a group that gave a charla to them on basic beekeeping. So many charlas were given during tech week that I coined the phrase “charla high” which is the feeling you get after you’ve given a charla because you were able to communicate in Spanish and now it’s over and you don’t have to worry about it any more. You can also get a “charla high” when listening to a charla where the speakers are obviously pouring their heart and souls into the charla and you are so moved by the experience that you just feel warm and fuzzy inside.
Other highlights include the passion fruit ice cream that we had in Villa Esperanza. The second night we were there we were invited (treated) by the site’s volunteer Armando (who hasn’t shaved or cut his hair since he got here almost a year ago and looks like Jesus, Moses or Papa Noel depending on which Bolivian your talking to.) But anyway there’s just something about sitting outside in a light rain under a passion fruit tree eating homemade passion fruit ice cream that made me stop and realize how lucky I am to be here.
Let me wrap this up before I get too sappy. I wanted to be brief but it was a really full 9 days. Our group was extremely lucky not to have anyone get seriously sick aside from the cold that went around from person to person. EE had some car trouble, NR had some altitude sickness and stomach issues and actually came home 2 days early, but AG stayed strong. Maybe it was all those bee products we consumed or maybe it’s because we’re just that awesome. Although I must say that after 13 hours in the bus on the ride home I was ready to be back with the host fam. So that was tech week: travel mosquito tents were assembled, disassembled and assembled again, many carbs, fried eggs and empanadas were eaten, karaoke was finally sung, showers were rarely taken, and I definitely learned a lot about AG and my fellow volunteers. On Monday we find out where our sites will be, we know most of them were decided during tech week based on our interviews and the opinions of our project director and trainers, but we still have to wait for the big reveal. Some people will be happy, others will undoubtedly be disappointed but this experience is what you make of it, your site is what you make of it and every site has the potential to be amazing. I just want to know and go! I was really hoping to upload some pics today but the internet gods were not smiling upon me and it just didn´t work. As a consolation prize check out the blogs of some of my fellow PCVs, 2 out of 3 of them have pics up on their blogs and you might even spot me in a few of them. The links are on the right hand side of the page. Enjoy!
Cochabamba Training Pics



Our Christ is bigger than yours Brazil!
High-Fiving Jesus
Jumping for Jesus


We learned to make yogurt one day.
This is Tito with a hose of yogurt, or a
hosegurt if you will.

Saturday, March 1, 2008
Bolivians: MacGyvers of the South
By far the coolest thing that Bolivia has recycled are the 1950s school buses which are called Micros and vans which are called trufis and are used for public transportation. They only cost 1.50-2bs/ride and they are the best way to travel. They are pimped out so ridiculously, I will have to post a pic eventually to give you the full effect. They are painted red, white and blue on the outside, and inside they are filled with the most absurd pictures, stickers and posters. Each Micro or Trufi has a distinct personality. Some are plastered with teddy bear stickers, pics of Avril or other random celebrities, ones with WWF wrestling posters, spiderman stickers, barbie stickers, disney characters, lots of Jesus pics, goth posters with a skull gear shifter, fuzzy dice, the works. Also, they are bumpy and crowded, as crowded or more so than the NYC subway. You can not imagine how many Bolivians you can fit in a van, at times more than 20. Everytime I take one I feel like I´m in a clown car, just when you think there can´t possibly be space for another human being here comes 5 school kids and they all get in. It´s so much fun and I´m just glad that I´m short because most of my fellow gringos are seriously cramped when riding in the trufis or micros. One of my favorite micro experiences to date is a quote from my friend Lebo right after we board micro E: ¨Watch out, there´s a chicken behind you.¨
CORRECTION: Last post I said the blockade was because of gas but that issue was resolved, the blockade was actually because the drivers want the road to be fixed (it´s really bad, like they are often driving on the wrong side of the road to avoid giant potholes) and they were promised that it would be fixed but they´re still awful. There have been a few more blockades around the city but no more in my hood.
In other news we have tech week coming up. We will be traveling around to some sites of current volunteers, giving charlas (talks, presentations) working a lot with bees and deciding on our sites. We got the descriptions of all 15 and they all sound pretty amazing. It´s definitely going to be a tough decision but ultimately they are going to match the person with a site where they can use their skills most effectively. We are all going to be doing great work and hopefully everyone is happy with their placement. The next time you hear from me I might actually know where I will be spending the next 2 years! So exciting...til then.
paz
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Baby´s First Blockade
More about the Totora road trip. Each group had their own field trip (environmental ed, natural resources and agriculture.) AG being the biggest group with 15 volunteers we got to travel in the bus with Don Rocky, which of course meant getting the dance party started. We were able to hook up I-pods and as we were getting a little antsy we busted out my I-pod and pumped one of my sweet dance mixes. I hope dancing on the bus is not against PC policy, because it´s really fun and a good workout. The views from the bus were also amazing, we just kept snapping pics of the view but it doesn´t quite capture how beautiful this country is. Driving through the narrow, twisting roads between the mountains I finally realized, wow, I´m here and I´m doing this and it feels great. The trip to Totora was to visit the site of 2 other volunteers, a retired married couple. The wife works in a business that was set up by a previous volunteer making tomato sauce, and let me tell you it is some tasty sauce. It´s spicy and delicious and I bought a big jar of the mushroom flavored sauce to share with my host family, yum. Her husband is still working on starting up his project and is working on gardens and with bees. We stayed at a cheap hostel and explored the town that night (after we had a tech meeting.) There was a traveling theater group of Germans and Bolivians who are also volunteers. We got invited to dance by the stage for the finale and it was so much fun, dancing with all these Bolivian kids and Germans in crazy costumes. AND we started a conga line! So all in all, the dance party was successfully brought to Bolivia.
The next day it was time to work on the respective projects of Millie and Ben. We split up into 2 groups so in the morning I was cooking the pasta sauce and in the afternoon I was working with bees. We chopped lots of fresh veggies for the picante variety which we ate for lunch, (the place where the kitchen is also serves as a cafe during festivals and special occassions) and we learned more about her project, which has a lot of potential since they already have a pretty strong client base. Now it´s all about making it sustainable and capable of being run without a volunteer in the community. After cooking we went over to where Ben works with some bee colonies. I have to admit that I´ve always had an irrational fear of bees so I was a bit worried about this aspect of my service. We suited up inwith masks, jackets and gloves and the smokers that were already lit from the previous group. I got into my calm zone and took a lot of deep breaths as I approached the bees. Oh, by the way, all the bees for honey here are the Africanized kind, aka ¨killer bees.¨ Nabor, master of all thing bee keeping and our teacher showed us how to smoke the bees to calm them down and then how to open the boxes and how to lift out the individual cells. I have to admit, bees are really interesting. I was so fascinated by the process that I didn´t freak out at all! I was lifting out the cells, identifying the cells, and there were bees everywhere! I was so proud of myself! I seriously feel like after doing that I can doing anything!
Well that´s all I have time for right now. It was really nice to go to another part of Bolivia and see what an actual site can be. I definitely would like to go back to Totora and explore a bit more of that area. In just a few weeks I´ll find out where I´m going! Until then, tengo mucho trabaja y mucho para aprender.
paz
Saturday, February 16, 2008
La gringita (do there waterballoons?)
With that said let me talk about some of the stuff I didn´t get to the last time around the old blogosphere. Carnival continued in full force. We had a water war at Lebo´s house up the road which was actually fun because we could defend ourselves a bit with waterballoons (globos) and water guns. It´s fine when it´s just water, but there was a roving ¨gang¨of kids who had water with red tint- not cool! Anyway, I was walking home afterwards and was almost even dry when one of the boys from the corner started spraying me with his water gun. This really pissed me off because we had been going back and forth with these kids all day, they had buckets and water guns while we mostly had globos, and walking home I had nothing. I was completely unarmed and I feel like the rules of war dictate that you can´t attack me when I´ve conceded the victory and have stopped fighting. Then there were these other kids close to my house and the mom says to her kids ¨la gringita¨so they all start shooting their water guns at me, like only 2 feet from my own house. So what could I do except use this 3 year old boy as a human shield. That was hilarious and maybe bad form on my part, but obviously during Carnival in Bolivia no rules really apply and they were laughing too so I think it was all right. Being an outsider for this holiday just made it so much less enjoyable for us, because as a gringa no matter how wet you are EVERYONE wantes to get you wet or spray you with foam so it´s a never ending onslaught and when you just want to walk somewhere or watch a parade, you can´t.
We went to Cochabamba on Saturday to see the corso de corsos which is like this giant parade with all these dancers from all over Bolivia in awesome costumes. The military guys all dress as women (the closest thing to a drag show that I´ll get in Bolivia.) When we got to El Prado we were just bombarded with globos, waterguns, foam (it´s kind of like shaving cream that they spray on you.) It didn´t matter if we were near restaurants or vendors, they launched everything they could at us. They nailed this mom who was eating ice cream at a restaurant right in the head, but they were aiming for us. A few of us bought bags of globos, it´s always more fun when you can get in on the action and defend yourself a little. Amy was a baseball player and her aim was dead on. But it was way too much for us, we finally took shelter at a restaurant called señor plato and had some beers, talked loudly, used the nastiest bathrooms ever and paid the 12 year old looking waiter/host/pro-beer opener. We headed to the PC office where a bus was picking us up. We went down a side street where we finally got to see the parade. There were still globos but it was a bit calmer. The dancers all wear these amazing outfits, more suited for NY´s best drag queens. I´m talkig knee high platform boots with bling, sparkle and flash. I´m talking purple, lime green, hot pink, gold and silver poofed out mini skirts and corsets, crowns and septers. The guys wear these really heavy outfits that are ridiculously boxy. The guys from Coch. wore tight black pants with gold trim and they all carried whips. I must find out where in Coch. these guys hang out. So yeah, that was Carnival. A crazy water war and a parade. It was fun at times but I´m glad it´s over and I´m glad they don´t celebrate all their holidays with waterballoons.
Going way back now, I forgot to talk about the big American Superbowl party we had at Pat´s house. His mom hosted nearly all the volunteers and her daughter cooked. It was great, not so much for the football but because it had been a whole day since we had all been together and everyone wanteed to know all about the families, what we were eating, what huge cultural mis-steps we had made. We´re all living with Bolivian families and it´s very different so getting together with other volunteers to talk is so important because you realize that our experiences are actually normal. Every little misunderstanding, horrible stomach problem, or culture shock moment suddenly becomes hilarious when you share it with your fellow gringos. I´ll admit I was worried about connecting with my fellow volunteers at first, I feel like in DC there was this uptight feel to staging and nobody could just be themselves. Now we´re down here in these communities and having each other is really improtant, laughing at ourselves is really important. With Carnival finished we are getting down to business. Four hours of Spanish class in the morning, four hours of technical class in the afternoon. We´re starting our projects, preparing to give a presentation and write a paper by the end of this training session (11 weeks.) We´re getting more books, manuals and papers to read everyday. It´s all really exciting and overwhelming at the same time. The great thing about not having TV and internet all the time is that you discover there are so many more hours in the day. I´m working hard to talk with my family, spend time with the kids who are awesome, and integrate a bit into the community, but when all is said and done I don´t mind being la gringita, at times it´s a term of endearment. Oh, and in case you are wondering I am not an international spy.
paz
Monday, February 4, 2008
Showers don´t just grow on trees, you know
Cochabamba is a really nice city actually with pretty decent restaurants. We got a great welcome from some of the PCVs in Bolivia and they took us out the first couple of nights for dinner. Even though Coch is at a lower altitude (like around 8,000 ft or something) and we are all in our 20s the volunteers would get winded going up 2 flights of stairs, it was pretty amusing actually. Everyone is pretty paranoid about getting sick, but it´s going to happen so there´s really no use getting worked up about it. One of our PCMedicalOfficer, aka Dr. Death loves to talk about all the exotic diseases we could acquire, ¨brain worm¨is definitely one of his favorites, not to mention chagas (beware the vinchuca!) Stay away from the chicha (homebrew alcohol made from corn,) but the chicarón (slow cooked pork dish) is fine. We have a huge medical manual (along with a ton of other handbooks that they´ve given us, I personally plan on making furniture with mine) and that is great bed time reading. I have a cough and a cold and I was pretty sure it was malaria or something horrible, but no it´s just a cough and a cold. Our med kit is stocked with everything we could ever want. I can´t wait to injure myself so I could use some of it. Although there is no vicks vap-o-rub and the other night I was lying in my mosquito net encased bed and acting like such a baby with this cough, like I just want my mom to rub so vicks on my chest and tuck me in. But I´m over it. My host mother Doña Juana is awesome and she is keeping me well fed at all hours of the day, if I leave she wants to know where I´m going and when I´ll be back, she´s like my very own Bolivian grandma. There are tons of people coming and going in the house, I´m still not sure who exactly lives there and who doesn´t because she has 7 kids and 9 grandkids. The 8 year old Adriana is adorable but man does she wear me out. We went to the market where her mom sells flowers and I picked up some pink (why is it pink?) toilet paper and soap. Toilet paper is definitely one of those luxury items here, much like flush toilets and showers. At my house we have a flush toilet (remember it´s Latin America so the TP goes in the trash not the toilet!) and an electric shower but in my site it will probably be a little different. I finally took a shower today and it actually got hot and it made me feel so much better. A little trick with the electric shower, if you turn off the light in the bathroom the water gets even hotter, nice. The thing is we have to give our family 2bs for every shower we take and when you make what we make that´s actually pretty steep. ($1=7.5bs)
The houses where we live now are all really different. Some are huge with modern bathrooms, some just have latrines and 3 rooms for the whole family. All the houses I´ve seen (mine and other PCVs) have this element of being inside and outside at the same time, it´s really interesting. There are animals everywhere. Dogs are a huge problem in Bolivia, I won´t get into it right now but I´m sure it will come up again. It´s the rainy season here and so the streets are really muddy and hard to walk on, but we manage. The other night it was raining all night long and the sound of that on the roof was really comforting and I also woke up to this symphony of cats, dogs, cows and birds. It was so amusing, like they were all trying to talk to each other in concert.
Okay, so food. First of all the potato is huge here. They have potatoes with every meal pretty much. One of the funniest things so far was lunch the other day at the training center (there is always soup with lunch) so we open up the lid to the pot and there are french fries floating in the soup! It was like mushroom soup with french fries, one of the tastier soups I´ve had here, definitely bringing that recipe back home. They also love their carbs. It´s typical to have rice, potatoes and pasta all in the same meal. For the AG volunteers a big part of our project is incorporating vegetables into the Bolivian diet. Our host families know to give us vegetables and so far I haven´t had to actually masticate any meat and I think that´s what being vegetarian in Bolivian will entail. Okay, I have a lot more to say about the training center and our projects and all that but my fellow volunteers are heading back and we travel in packs so I must go. I hope this was 3bs well spent. Talk to you soon!